How to Remove and Transport Your Sailboat Mast for the Great Loop
If you’re a sailboat planning to cruise the Erie Canal, mast unstepping is a must. This process can feel daunting at first, but it’s completely manageable with the right preparation. Our family tackled this step aboard our Beneteau 423 as part of our Great Loop journey, and while every boat is different, many of the considerations apply broadly. Whether your boat is deck-stepped or keel-stepped, whether you choose a full-service yard or a DIY club crane, understanding the logistics will help ensure a safe and smooth transition. Here’s what to know.
Deck-Stepped or Keel-Stepped?
Your first task is to confirm whether your mast is deck-stepped (sits on top of the deck) or keel-stepped (extends through the deck into the keel). Most production cruising sailboats like our Beneteau 423 are deck-stepped, making unstepping simpler. For keel-stepped masts, the process involves more labor and more precise handling.
If you're not sure, check the base of the mast inside the cabin or consult your boat's manual. This distinction matters—a deck-stepped mast generally just requires disconnection of rigging and electronics before a crane can lift it away.
Choosing a Location: Catskill vs. Castleton
Catskill, NY is the full-service option. Marinas like Hop-O-Nose and Riverview Marine Services offer professional crane operation and often have riggers on site.
Pros: No lifting required by you; experienced staff; good Looper hub.
Cons: Higher cost (expect around $8–$10 per foot); must schedule ahead; mast storage or shrink-wrapping may be extra.
Castleton Boat Club, further north, is a popular DIY option.
Pros: Inexpensive (under $100, plus suggested donation); sailors help each other; you learn a lot.
Cons: You do the work; fewer amenities; limited town access.
Some boaters prefer Castleton for the camaraderie and affordability. Others opt for Catskill’s ease and convenience. Choose what fits your comfort level and timeline.
The Unstepping Process
Remove the Boom
Start by removing the boom. Disconnect mainsheets and any related hardware. Wrap the boom in carpet or padding to prevent damage during transport—we wish we’d done more of this ourselves, as ours suffered from vibrations and chafe.
Disconnect Electronics
Inside the boat, disconnect any wiring that runs up the mast: anchor light, VHF, radar, etc. If you plan to repeat this process in the future, consider installing reusable waterproof connectors.
Build and Install Cradles
Before unstepping, build sturdy cradles for deck storage. We used 2x6s to create two cradles:
One near the cockpit to support the mast above the stern tower.
One on the bow to hold the mast securely and minimize deck interference.
Make sure these are wide and stable enough to handle weight and prevent shifting. You'll want to strap the mast down tightly using pad-eyes or cleats—not the lifelines—to preserve access to side decks.
Disconnect Rigging
Before removing stays or shrouds, secure the mast with lines to prevent movement. Then:
Disconnect shrouds, backstay, and forestay.
Remove sails (we took our foresail off the furler).
Mark the turnbuckles with tape so you can re-tune later.
Bundle halyards and rigging with plastic wrap or zip ties to keep everything tidy and attached to the mast.
Lift the Mast
Use the marina’s crane or gin pole to lift the mast straight up once it's free. Plan your lift carefully:
Know the weight and length of your mast (our in-mast furling added significant weight).
Communicate clearly with the operator or helpers.
We aimed the base of the mast toward the bow and the spreaders downward to minimize overall height.
Storing the Mast on Deck
Once the mast is down, cradle it on deck and strap it down securely. Key considerations:
Visibility: Ensure the mast doesn’t block your view from the helm.
Deck Movement: Keep walkways clear where possible (our cockpit cradle straddled the table).
Rain Exposure: If your dodger/bimini is down, expect some soggy cockpit days.
We used the pad-eyes on our deck to secure ratchet straps, which left side decks open for locking and transit.
Cost Considerations
Crane Fees: Ranges from $100 to several hundred depending on location.
Rigging Help: Expect hourly charges if you hire pros.
Cradle Supplies: Lumber, padding, straps, fasteners.
Storage: On-deck is free but adds complexity. Yard storage may be extra.
Re-Stepping the Mast
Once through the canal, you can re-step in Oswego, Tonawanda, or even in the Great Lakes region. Plan ahead:
Inspect and Upgrade: While the mast is down, it’s a great time to service the rig, replace bulbs or wiring, and check your spreaders.
Hire a Rigger: Re-tuning your rig should be done carefully, ideally by a professional.
Space Challenges: Working on a mast laid out on deck is awkward—try to do as much as possible before it’s fully secured.
Final Thoughts
Unstepping the mast is a rite of passage for sailboats on the Great Loop. With solid planning and a little patience, you can navigate this transition confidently. Whether you go full-service or DIY, prepare thoroughly, use the right tools and supplies, and don’t hesitate to ask for help from marina staff or fellow cruisers.
You’ve got this. The Erie Canal awaits!
Have questions about unstepping your mast for the Loop? Drop them in the comments below or reach out on our Loop Life Academy forums
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